Kingsman of Gentleman Look

你們看過電影金牌特務(Kingsman)了嘛？重點不在這是部大爽片，裡頭著墨頗多的紳士風格（Gentleman Look）讓我最感興趣，常看我分享文章的朋友一定都知道，個人對於英倫風格甚是喜愛，更獨鍾由此延伸出的英式紳士風。You've seen the movie gold medal agents (Kingsman) Well? This is the big focus is not on the Department of cool piece, inside a lot of inking gentleman style (Gentleman Look) so I am most interested in, often see friends I share the article must know, very personal style is a favorite for England, thus more single bell extending British gentleman.

由Colin Firth飾演的特務哈利（Harry Hart）正是本人認為能當作紳士活教材的最佳範本，除了作為一名紳士必須具備的優雅談吐與儀態，服裝也毫不馬虎，如同劇中哈利所言「在古代，騎士身穿盔甲，而西裝（Suit）就是現代騎士的盔甲。」Colin Firth played the spy Harry (Harry Hart) what I think can be used as a model gentleman living the best materials, in addition to being a gentleman must have the elegance of conversation and deportment, clothing is also not sloppy, as the play Kazakhstan Lee said, "in ancient times, knights in armor, and a suit (Suit) is the modern knight armor."

一套好的西裝對於紳士們而言，真的很重要。

A good suit for gentlemen, it is really important.

在歐洲，真正的紳士確實會至熟識的訂製服裝店，訂製(Tailor Made)屬於自己的西服正裝，而不是購買一般服飾品牌。雖然台灣少有此類訂製店，有的也是一些奇怪的韓風西裝店，但每次購入襯衫或西裝，個人還是會拿去給熟悉的修改阿姨細部微調，這部分是身在台灣的我所能做的，因為無論襯衫或西裝外套，買來時不可能完全合身，但西裝與襯衫袖長以及手錶配戴位置的黃金比例卻又馬虎不得。In Europe, a real gentleman does to familiar custom clothing, custom (Tailor Made) own suit dress, rather than later Usually apparel brands. While few of these custom shop in Taiwan, and some also some strange Famous suit shop, but to buy a shirt or suit each individual will still take the matter to a familiar aunt modify trim detail, partly living in Taiwan I We can do, because no matter the shirt or jacket, when purchased can not be completely fit, but the golden ratio suit and shirt sleeve and a watch worn location but sloppy.

至於鞋子，劇中特務的暗號「牛津鞋不等於雕花鞋」頗值得玩味，就個人淺見，應該改成「牛津鞋不等於德比鞋」則較為恰當。牛津鞋(Oxford Shoe)源自16至17世紀愛爾蘭與蘇格蘭高地居民所穿的日常鞋，到了19世紀左右在英國牛津大學學生間流行，逐漸廣為人知，而雕花鞋(Brogus)可說是牛津鞋其中的一項分支。As for shoes, play spy signal "does not equal carved Oxford shoes shoes" was really interesting, personally humble opinion, should be changed to "not equal to Derby Oxford shoes shoes" is more appropriate. Oxford shoes (Oxford Shoe) from the 16-17 century Irish and Highland resident worn everyday shoes, to around the 19th century popular among the Oxford University student, gradually known, and carved shoes (Brogus) which can be said to Oxford shoes one branch.

在台灣，很多人會將牛津鞋(Oxford Shoe)(右)與德比鞋(Derby Shoe)(左)混為一談，前者最大的特色是用封閉式襟片(Enclosed Lacing)，當將鞋帶繫緊時會與鞋面密合成一片，較具正式感，適合出席一些重要場合著用。後者則使用與牛津鞋相反的開放式襟片(Open Lacing)，鞋帶繫緊時並不會密合，現代許多流行鞋款都採用這種設計，適合平時休閒著用。In Taiwan, many people will oxford shoes (Oxford Shoe) (right) and Derby (Derby Shoe) (left) confuse, the biggest feature is enclosed flaps (Enclosed Lacing), when the laces tight will be one, the more formal sense and dense synthetic upper, attend some important occasions for the use. The latter is used with Oxford shoes opposite open flaps (Open Lacing), when the laces tight and not close together, many popular modern shoes have adopted this design, suitable for everyday casual the use.

再來看看鞋子之外的配件。除了劇中角色配戴的腕錶可稱之為紳士牌的萬寶龍(Montblanc)外，雨傘也是完整紳士風格必備。以前的紳士會使用手杖，現代的紳士則使用精緻作工的傘取代，有趣的是，據說在平時多雨的英國，就算下雨了，正統紳士們依舊不會撐傘（或許認為傘開了就與手杖原意不同了），真是相當貫徹紳士之道。Let's look beyond the fitting shoes. In addition to the characters to be called a gentleman wearing the watch brand Montblanc (Montblanc), the umbrella is a complete gentleman style essential. Previous gentleman would use a cane, using modern gentleman fine workmanship umbrella substituted, it is interesting, it is said in the usual rainy Britain, even if it rains, the orthodox gentlemen still will not open an umbrella (probably think umbrella opened to and cane intent is different), it is really quite implementing gentleman of the road.

著重細節(Detail)並與自身氣質融合，才是成為一位真正紳士的條件，電影裡有這麼一句話：「無論出身高低，後天學習才是最重要的」，作為一名紳士如此，同人生也是如次，共勉之！Focus on detail (Detail) and integration with its own temperament, is to become a true gentleman of condition, the movie has so many words: "No matter the level of origin, acquired learning is the most important", as a true gentleman, with life is summarized as follows, mutual encouragement!