"Dior vs Patou" Look from The Man from U.N.C.L.E. for Gentleman Style
前些日子，我從電影金牌特務(Kingsman)著眼，描寫關於英國紳士的相關文章，獲得不少好評，近來，同樣翻拍六○年代影集且打著紳士旗幟為號召的電影，紳士密令(The Man from U.N.C.L.E.)上映，由我相當喜愛的鬼才導演Guy Ritchie所導，Guy以往的一系列作品向來充滿濃厚的英倫味，從早期的兩根槍管(Lock Stock and Two Smonking Barrels)到最新的福爾摩斯(Sherlock Holmes)系列，由Jason Statham的市井到 Jude Law的紳士，透露其對於英國文化的層次運用，並擅長使用MV式的分鏡手法，以及劇中不時灑上一些黑色幽默調味，最終呈現他獨有且令人驚嘆的蓋式風格。 Recently, I have a gold medal from the movie spy (Kingsman) focus, describing relevant articles about the British gentleman, received a lot of praise, recently, the same year the album and remake 60s the name of the gentleman flag for the call of the movie, the gentleman Candidate (The Man from UNCLE) released by the devil I am quite fond of the lead director Guy Ritchie, Guy previous series of works has always been filled with a strong British flavor, from the early two gun tube (Lock Stock and Two Smonking Barrels) to the latest Sherlock Holmes (Sherlock Holmes) series by Jason Statham marketplace to Jude Law gentleman, disclose its for levels of British culture use, and good use of MV type sub-mirror approach, and sprinkle some black humor from time to time play seasoning, eventually presenting his unique and amazing style cover.
Lock Stock and Two Smonking Barrels中英國人民不可或缺的酒吧文化
Lock Stock and Two Smonking Barrels integral part of the British people in the pub culture
Sherlock Holmes裡優雅的貝克街紳士
Sherlock Holmes in Baker Street, an elegant gentleman
但，不得不說，紳士密令這部作品與Guy之前的風格有些差異，依稀感覺他想做些突破，少了英倫味，卻帶出了美俄紳士間的爭鋒相對，小至服裝上的論辯，大至兩個國家的世仇相抗，在那一觸即發的戰後敏感時期，依然流露專屬於Guy Ritchie不落俗套的蓋式幽默。But have to say, gentlemen secret order this work style with Guy before some differences, vaguely felt he wanted to do to break, a little taste of England, has brought out the Commander of the US-Russian gentleman to relatively little to the debate on clothing , ranging from the two countries feud proposition, in that post-war period sensitive explosive, still reveal exclusively Guy Ritchie cover offbeat humor.
在法國懷舊配樂相襯下，從兩位男主角的服裝面來看，Henry Cavill所飾演的美國探員Napoleon Solo，與福爾摩斯中拘謹的英倫紳士不同，成套的西裝，上等皮質的鞋履，畫龍點睛的領帶、領巾、袖釦，缺一不可，不時地將手插入口袋，嘴角揚起的自信微笑，散發出美利堅紳士那特有且濃厚的不可一世，反倒由Armie Hammer詮釋的蘇俄探員Illya Kuryakin，較為木訥的個性，穿著上也偏Casual些，頭上頂著常有人將其與報童帽搞混的狩獵帽，身穿今年流行的高領毛衣配上充滿成熟氛圍的改良式麂皮G9 blouson與注重剪裁的西裝褲，最後踩雙Chelsea boots，隨興卻不隨便的俄式獵人氣息表露無疑。In contrast, France nostalgic soundtrack, the actor's costume from two perspective, Henry Cavill played the American detective Napoleon Solo, and Sherlock Holmes in stiff British gentleman different sets of suits, fine leather shoes, finishing touch tie, scarf, cufflinks, indispensable, from time to time the hand into the pocket, mouth Raising a confident smile, he exudes the United gentleman that unique and strong arrogant, actually interpret the Russian officers by the Armie Hammer Illya Kuryakin, relatively stiff personality, the dress also partial Casual some, his head often people confuse it with the reported bonnet hunting cap, wearing a high-necked sweater fashion this year coupled with the full maturity of modified atmosphere suede G9 blouson with a focus on tailoring the suit pants, finally stepped double Chelsea boots, casual but not casual atmosphere snarky Russian hunters.
報童帽的帽身較寬
Reported a wider bonnet cap body
狩獵帽則帽身偏窄
Hunting cap the cap body is narrow
當然，不得不提到，飾演劇中女主角Gabriella "Gaby" Teller的年度Louis Vuitton代言人Alicia Vikande以及飾演女二Victoria Vinciguerra的Elizabeth Debicki，前者身著經典A-line幾何洋裝與點綴俏皮的首飾，馬術帽與今年廣泛流行的寬沿帽，完美呈現屬於六○年代女人的摩登自信，後者則是充分表達六○年代上流社會的華麗優雅，身上除了那一身黑白線條交錯的雅緻裝束，佈滿貴金屬首飾更是必須，舉手投足散發不加掩飾的優雅與強烈的蛇蠍氣場。Of course, have to mention, played drama actress Gabriella "Gaby" Teller's annual Louis Vuitton spokesperson Alicia Vikande and played two female Victoria Vinciguerra of Elizabeth Debicki, the former dressed in classic A-line dress with geometric ornament playful jewelry, equestrian cap and this year a wide range of popular wide-brimmed hat, the perfect present belongs 60s modern confident woman, the latter is the full expression of gorgeous 60s elegant high society, who in addition to a black and white lines that elegant attire staggered, covered with precious metal jewelery more is required, gestures exudes elegance and unabashed Viper strong gas field.
金牌特務與紳士密令相比，我認為，前者著墨關於英國紳士風格的一切，後者則不刻意圍繞於紳士二字，反倒對於特務間的描寫更為細膩，穿著風格也更為多元，無論如何，對於喜歡正裝的我來說，兩部作品對服裝的詮釋皆不馬虎，各有趣味，不需要排斥任何風格，截取其適合自己的部分，呈現屬於你(妳)獨有的精隨，套句劇中Illya Kuryakin所說的「混搭，才是時尚。」Compared with the gentleman spy Gold secret order, and I think everything about the former British gentleman style ink, which is not deliberately around to the word gentleman, actually more delicate to describe inter-spy, dress style is more diverse, however, for those who prefer suits me, the two works are neither careless interpretation of clothing, have fun, do not need to exclude any style, intercepting it for their own part, showing yours (u) with a unique essence, sets sentence play Illya Kuryakin said "mix and match, is the fashion."
